The 'all you need to know guide' to wiring a 16v engine loom into an ax.

This guide is specifically for single plug ECU's. For 3 plug ECU's see this page http://www.axoc.co.uk/wiki/doku.php?id=saxo_16v_3plug_pin-outs and use that information whilst following this guide.

Here is a picture of a single plug 16v engine loom

If you have an ecu that is locked and you dont have the keypad/transponder and key for it, then you will need to get it unlocked.

It means sending away to Bluehawk electonics or ECU doctor and paying them a small fee (Around £100) to unlock it. Ryan is now also offering this service for much less. See the for sale section sticky's

Below is the diagram for 16v loom.

I recommend that you continuity check/ diode test (this the buzz noise on multimeter) the loom though and check that there are no faults/broken cables before starting!

The above diagram is for a saxo vts loom. the 106 gti loom has some slight differences in the wires off the ignition relay. Also the collection of blue wires that need to goto live are just joined onto the starter feed on the 106 gti where as the vts has extra wires to goto the fusebox.

Below are the two connectors found on my 106 GTi 16v engine loom

Please use this as a guide as the pin out for saxo vts's are probably different.

The wiring colour and numbering however are the same - according to the vts loom i wired.

This had 3 wires going to it:

The Mk2 AX pin outs are located here - rather than repeat it all!

Useful Loom Pinouts

There are 2 ways of getting the 16v engine loom working in an ax

• You can make a converter loom that fits between the 16v engine connector and the ax interior connector.

This means that you dont need to ruin the 16v engine loom in any way, and it could be used in the saxo or 106 it came from again.

• To cut the 16v engine loom off, and solder an ax connector staight on.

This means that you will be able to use the 16v loom in other ax's but not from the saxo or 106 it came from.

Either way, you have to join the correct wires together!

If you are going to wire the ax multiplug directly to 16v loom here is a tip!

DONOT cut the reverse and the water temp connectors that are attached to the ax engine connector. It means you DONOT have to wire there in.

Also dont cut off the starter motor wire, the alternator battery light, the oil pressure switch, oil level light. This means you will have to strip both looms back and rewrap them. but it only means soldering the ECU and the Switched live for the relay onto the multiplug

[IMG]http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r297/rallyeax/Reference%20pics/SV105351.jpg[/IMG]

I kept the locaton if this plug under the ecu tray, therefore I had to run these cables back though the loom to the ecu connector side

Unfortunately it isnt as simple as that! This is where it could get a bit complicated.

First off remember to earth all the earths!!

In my 16v loom the injector relay was alredy connected to permanet positive battery supply via my starter motor.

This is pin 2 pin 8 pin 11 (and on vts looms pin 15) of the injector relay.

If they are not alredy connected to permanent positive battery, then either connect them to the starter motor terminal direct from the battery, or Pin 1 of the ax white connector

Tap this off the fuel pump wire White 120, coming from the Injector relay pin 5 or pin 6

Put an Inline fuse in the lambda power wire.

It is good practice to put an inline fuse in the fuel pump wire as the lamda can overload it and cause deterioration of the wire. You don't have to but I recomend it as I have blown this fuse a few times now so there is clearly a high load on it. This what I recommend:

If you want to change to electonic speedometer, rather than the cable driven setups, then the speedo feed will have to be wired in seperatly

If you want to wire in an oil temp gauge then use

These are wires that you are not going to need and could be removed from the loom