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badboy_bonnet [2007/04/27 23:16]
Jason
badboy_bonnet [2016/08/18 20:27] (current)
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-**Badboy Bonnet**+===== Badboy Bonnet ​=====
  
-First I’m going to say that this method is the way I made my bonnet. It’s not the easiest ​way but im happy with the outcome. The easier ​method is to weld the steel ‘eyebrows’ on to the bonnet; ths is what I was going to do until I found that my 6th form schools ​welding ​equipment was gas and not mig or tig, so wud not have concentrated the heat and warped the bonnet…not good! +The easiest method is to [[weld]] the steel ‘eyebrows’ on to the bonnet. These instructions ​do not require any welding.
  
 Disclaimer: if you hurt yourself when doing this / damage your car when doing this / stick your cats legs together with fibreglass when doing this …… its not AXOC’s fault. ​ Disclaimer: if you hurt yourself when doing this / damage your car when doing this / stick your cats legs together with fibreglass when doing this …… its not AXOC’s fault. ​
  
-Tools needed: ​+Tools needed: 
 +  * Sheet steel  
 +  * File 
 +  * Tinsnips 
 +  * Small nuts/​bolts 
 +  * Isopon p38 and p40 
 +  * Primer 
 +  * Variety of grades of wet n’ dry paper 
 + 
  
-• Sheet steel +  - Mark out and cut the shape wanted for the ‘eyebrows’ with the tinsnips out of the steel, leaving room at the top edge to bolt on. Making carboard templates first is helpful. ​  
 +  - Drill holes for the bolts to fit through; three was enough on mine, one at each side and in the middle.  
 +  - Put in the bolts and tighten the nuts so that each eyebrow is held securley in place.  
 +  - Here's the hard part, file down the head of each bolt so its flush with the skin of the bonnet.\\ {{:​badboy1.jpg}} 
 +  - It may help to roughen the bonnet around the eyebrow for the next stage to help the filler to stick.  
 +  - Mix up some of the isopon fibreglass paste and apply to fill the gap between steel and bonnet. When dry, mix up the filler and apply layers to smoothen out the area above the steel.  
 +  - Use 240grit wet and dry to remove lumps in the filler when dry and work to a smoothish 600grit finish. ​ Apply a layer or two of primer, and then rub down with wet and dry paper on a block; this magically shows the raised areas that need sanding down.  
 +  - Keep adding fine layers of filler, sanding back and spraying until the finish is up to standard. This is the stage that determines the final finish so take as much time as possible.\\ {{:​badboy2.jpg}} 
 +  - Add a couple of layers of primer and sand down with 1000 grit to give a really smooth finish ready for the final coats of paint.\\ {{:​badboy3.jpg}}
  
-• File  +          ​£25.00 for bonnet, ​
- +
-• Tinsnips  +
- +
-• Small nuts/bolts  +
- +
-• Isopon p38 and p40  +
- +
-• Primer  +
- +
-• Variety of grades of wet n’ dry paper  +
- +
-1) Mark out and cut the shape wanted for the ‘eyebrows’ with the tinsnips out of the steel, leaving room at the top edge to bolt on. Making carboard templates first is helpful. ​  +
- +
-2) Drill holes for the bolts to fit through; three was enough on mine, one at each side and in the middle.  +
- +
-3) Put in the bolts and tighten the nuts so that each eyebrow is held securley in place.  +
- +
-4) Here's the hard part, file down the head of each bolt so its flush with the skin of the bonnet.  +
- +
-{{:​badboy1.jpg}} +
- +
-5) It may help to roughen the bonnet around the eyebrow for the next stage to help the filler to stick.  +
- +
-6) Mix up some of the isopon fibreglass paste and apply to fill the gap between steel and bonnet. When dry, mix up the filler and apply layers to smoothen out the area above the steel.  +
- +
-7) Use 240grit wet and dry to remove lumps in the filler when dry and work to a smoothish 600grit finish. ​ Apply a layer or two of primer, and then rub down with wet and dry paper on a block; this magically shows the raised areas that need sanding down.  +
- +
-9) Keep adding fine layers of filler, sanding back and spraying until the finish is up to standard. This is the stage that determines the final finish so take as much time as possible.  +
- +
-{{:​badboy2.jpg}} +
- +
-10) Add a couple of layers of primer and sand down with 1000 grit to give a really smooth finish ready for the final coats of paint.  +
- +
-{{:​badboy3.jpg}} +
- +
-Cost =   £25.00 for bonnet, ​+
           £0.70 for wet’n’dry paper           £0.70 for wet’n’dry paper
           £1.00 per tin of primer [bargain!] ​           £1.00 per tin of primer [bargain!] ​
           £7.00 for twin pack of p38/p40           £7.00 for twin pack of p38/p40
           £0.00 for sheet stainless steel           £0.00 for sheet stainless steel
 +          ​
 +//Price correct at the time of the making of the badboy bonnet//
  
-Lots cheaper than letting a bodyshop do it for you, and more appreciated when it’s finished after all the hard work you put into it. +It is cheaper than letting a bodyshop do it for you, and more appreciated when it is finished after all the hard work you put into it. 
  
badboy_bonnet.txt · Last modified: 2016/08/18 20:27 (external edit)